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Post by fishing_in_israel on Jul 25, 2010 1:19:19 GMT -4
I've been looking around at some baitcasting rods and am not sure which way to go. What are folks preferences for having a 'trigger' on the handle? Trigger or plain?
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Post by rocfish on Jul 25, 2010 11:25:10 GMT -4
I don't know that I've seen a baitcaster without a trigger? I own several baitcasting outfits, my favorites being the two split grip models I own (both with trigger). I have a Kistler Med. Heavy that I use for weed jig fishing and deep spoon fishing, and my newest favorite is my St. Croix Mojo (medium action) that I use for most of my casting and cranking duties. The Mojo is a great rod for the money, very well engineered and built, and right around $100 bucks.
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Post by fishing_in_israel on Jul 25, 2010 12:37:32 GMT -4
I don't know that I've seen a baitcaster without a trigger? I own several baitcasting outfits, my favorites being the two split grip models I own (both with trigger). I have a Kistler Med. Heavy that I use for weed jig fishing and deep spoon fishing, and my newest favorite is my St. Croix Mojo (medium action) that I use for most of my casting and cranking duties. The Mojo is a great rod for the money, very well engineered and built, and right around $100 bucks. I had a look at their web site - very nice looking rods They even have a good selection of saltwater rods. I'm coming to realize that anything 1 piece is going to be expensive to ship I shall have to keep trying different dealers to see which one are willing to ship at reasonable costs......
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Post by fishing_in_israel on Jul 28, 2010 21:27:43 GMT -4
The money that my mum sent arrived in my PayPal account and I found a seller that ships 1 piece rods international for $40 USPS Priority Mail International. So in the end I got an Abu Garcia Vendetta Casting Rod VTC73-6 7'3 Med Heavy and an Abu Garcia Revo Inshore. I also got 300yds of PowerPro 30lb green braid to go with the setup ;D ;D ;D Now all I need is the patience for it all to arrive
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Post by Compre on Aug 9, 2010 12:28:32 GMT -4
This reply might be too late, but I recommend to the Shimano Compre 6'10 Medium Heavy, extra fast tip in 2pcs. The 2pcs is very difficult to find, and I was lucky enough to have one. Try Berkley and Okuma, they have longer rods which I think will fit for your "fishing in israel" style.
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Post by fishing_in_israel on Aug 9, 2010 13:05:00 GMT -4
This reply might be too late, but I recommend to the Shimano Compre 6'10 Medium Heavy, extra fast tip in 2pcs. The 2pcs is very difficult to find, and I was lucky enough to have one. Try Berkley and Okuma, they have longer rods which I think will fit for your "fishing in israel" style. A little bit late. The rod and reel (Abu Garcia Vendetta Casting Rod VTC73-6 7'3 Med Heavy and an Abu Garcia Revo Inshore) should be arriving any day now. I'm really looking forward to trying it all out..... The rod and reel are factory tuned for each other and they say that the balance is perfect!
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Post by fishing_in_israel on Aug 9, 2010 13:09:15 GMT -4
This reply might be too late, but I recommend to the Shimano Compre 6'10 Medium Heavy, extra fast tip in 2pcs. The 2pcs is very difficult to find, and I was lucky enough to have one. Try Berkley and Okuma, they have longer rods which I think will fit for your "fishing in israel" style. I really wanted something in the 7' range and ended up with a 7'3 one, any longer and they become a bit of a handful and tiring - especially when you are casting for up to 8 hours at a stretch
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Post by Compre on Aug 9, 2010 16:49:56 GMT -4
This reply might be too late, but I recommend to the Shimano Compre 6'10 Medium Heavy, extra fast tip in 2pcs. The 2pcs is very difficult to find, and I was lucky enough to have one. Try Berkley and Okuma, they have longer rods which I think will fit for your "fishing in israel" style. A little bit late. The rod and reel (Abu Garcia Vendetta Casting Rod VTC73-6 7'3 Med Heavy and an Abu Garcia Revo Inshore) should be arriving any day now. I'm really looking forward to trying it all out..... The rod and reel are factory tuned for each other and they say that the balance is perfect! Please let me know how they go. Other than a series of Shimano Compre, I have 2 cheap Abu Ambassadeur in M 6'6" and MH 7' casting rod. They are cheap ($30 for both of them) but they good rods. I wonder how the higher end Abu rod n reel will perform. All the best mate!
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Post by fishing_in_israel on Aug 15, 2010 13:04:31 GMT -4
Well, after waiting for what seemed ages (just under 3 weeks) the baitcasting rod arrived and also the baitcasting reel that I had bought a few days later. The rod had got stuck in customs and I had to pay 74 shekels (about $19) import duties Actually it wasn't too bad at all - the customs didn't notice the smaller reel package that was worth double the value of the rod So I now have an Abu Garcia combo -- Vendetta Casting Rod VTC73-6 7'3 Med Heavy and a Revo Inshore loaded with PowerPro 30lb green. Now all I have to do is get the feel of it and go to our [kibbutz] swimming pool after folks leave and start practicing casting...... On a side note, I did notice that when casting (I tried it out in our back yard a bit) the level-wind stays put and the line has to go left and right at tight angles to pass through the level-wind I suppose this is normal and I also suppose that it would be best to make sure that the level wind in in the middle before casting -- but I've never seen anybody bother on the fishing video clips that I've watched Does it matter that much?
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Post by Compre on Aug 17, 2010 17:28:55 GMT -4
I never paid any attention to where my level wind is positioned before I cast, but I think it is normal that it is staying put. How did you do with the reel? I never tried baitcasting reels that don't come with the Mag Brake before so I am very interested in finding out about them.
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Post by rocfish on Aug 17, 2010 20:54:16 GMT -4
It is pretty much standard that the level-wind mechanism stays put on the cast out, its purpose is really only to make sure the line gets picked up level to the spool on the retrieve. I wouldn't worry about trying to have it in the center before your cast, the friction that occurs from the perceived tight angles of the line is actually fairly negligible. What I have found to help with distance though is if you slightly roll your wrist on the cast so that the spool is vertical as the line fires out as opposed to horizontal. Play around with it, practice is the best way to get comfortable with it, no amount of any of our advice can replace the experience of actually fishing with it. ;D
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Post by fishing_in_israel on Aug 17, 2010 21:33:06 GMT -4
I never paid any attention to where my level wind is positioned before I cast, but I think it is normal that it is staying put. How did you do with the reel? I never tried baitcasting reels that don't come with the Mag Brake before so I am very interested in finding out about them. I used to have a a couple of what we called 'multipliers' when I was fishing quite a few years back in the UK. I got used to casting with them pretty quick and so my new baitcaster is already feeling at home in my hands I started practicing throwing a pretty heavy lure - a 19g Yo-Zuri Darter -- they're aesy to cast and unlike the heavier Rapalas that I have, there is no real weight transfer system so I could practice gentle 'lobs' to start with without worrying about casting the lure hard so as to get the tungsten balls into the tail of the lure. I then tried a few casts with a CRR3 (10g) to see how the combo handled lighter lures (the rod is actually designed for weights between 14-40g). I was able to cast about 25m without trying too hard. I suppose the next fun part is practicing throwing into the wind
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Post by fishing_in_israel on Aug 17, 2010 21:36:28 GMT -4
It is pretty much standard that the level-wind mechanism stays put on the cast out, its purpose is really only to make sure the line gets picked up level to the spool on the retrieve. I wouldn't worry about trying to have it in the center before your cast, the friction that occurs from the perceived tight angles of the line is actually fairly negligible. What I have found to help with distance though is if you slightly roll your wrist on the cast so that the spool is vertical as the line fires out as opposed to horizontal. Play around with it, practice is the best way to get comfortable with it, no amount of any of our advice can replace the experience of actually fishing with it. ;D We have a decent sized swimming pool in our kibbutz and it has a good 50m of casting available (it would have been 75m but they built a fancy wooden bridge for the 'events garden' attached to the swimming pool ) Still 50m is OK for practicing I will practice and practice and practice etc.
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Post by Compre on Aug 19, 2010 12:07:24 GMT -4
You are very lucky to have an Olympic size swimming pool to practise your casting and checking out on your lure presentation; I have to go to a local park to practise and people will think that I am crazy. anyway, I went online and look for the Multipliers, I found out it is very similar to the round baitcaster. I have a Shimano round baitcaster but never had the finesse in using it, a bit too heavy for casting, instead it is good for trolling.
I have almost the same technique as Rocfish, I roll my wrist so the spool is vertical at the end of the forehand cast. This technique is good for an increase distance and with the right brake setting you don't even have to thump the spool when the lure hits the water.
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Post by fishing_in_israel on Aug 19, 2010 21:34:41 GMT -4
You are very lucky to have an Olympic size swimming pool to practise your casting and checking out on your lure presentation; I have to go to a local park to practise and people will think that I am crazy. anyway, I went online and look for the Multipliers, I found out it is very similar to the round baitcaster. I have a Shimano round baitcaster but never had the finesse in using it, a bit too heavy for casting, instead it is good for trolling. I have almost the same technique as Rocfish, I roll my wrist so the spool is vertical at the end of the forehand cast. This technique is good for an increase distance and with the right brake setting you don't even have to thump the spool when the lure hits the water. During the summer months, when the pool is open, I have to either get up real early on Saturday mornings or wait until about 7 in the evening when the last swimmers leave the water before I can get some practice in. The folks think I'm a bit crazy too -- "Caught anything yet?" "Are there any fish in the pool?" But they're getting used to seeing me there..... In the winter the pool is all mine I shall have to try that technique. Is there any scientific advantage - or is it just a personal thing?
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Post by Compre on Aug 20, 2010 20:41:48 GMT -4
You are very lucky to have an Olympic size swimming pool to practise your casting and checking out on your lure presentation; I have to go to a local park to practise and people will think that I am crazy. anyway, I went online and look for the Multipliers, I found out it is very similar to the round baitcaster. I have a Shimano round baitcaster but never had the finesse in using it, a bit too heavy for casting, instead it is good for trolling. I have almost the same technique as Rocfish, I roll my wrist so the spool is vertical at the end of the forehand cast. This technique is good for an increase distance and with the right brake setting you don't even have to thump the spool when the lure hits the water. During the summer months, when the pool is open, I have to either get up real early on Saturday mornings or wait until about 7 in the evening when the last swimmers leave the water before I can get some practice in. The folks think I'm a bit crazy too -- "Caught anything yet?" "Are there any fish in the pool?" But they're getting used to seeing me there..... In the winter the pool is all mine I shall have to try that technique. Is there any scientific advantage - or is it just a personal thing? I don't know if there is a scientific advantage other than it slows down the spool rotation. By the way, the follow through is very important also to increase your casting distance. At the end of your casting move point your rod to the direction of your lure, with the right brake setting you can lift your thump from the spool to allow the line to go freely. The spool in vertical position will you give you enough brake. My baitcasters are Daiwa with Magnetic Brake, I don't know if this technique will also applicablle to a non magnetic brake baitcasters. But this technique works well for me for distance and no backlashes. Happy trying it and let me know if you caught anything at the pool.
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Post by purplehog44 on Mar 25, 2011 11:23:05 GMT -4
I am a fan of St. Croix. The Premier is a nice rod. I have recently discovered the Triumph is the Chinese version of the Premier at about half the cost. It's really hard to tell the difference between the two.
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Post by muskiehunter on Mar 25, 2011 12:28:34 GMT -4
Most of my baitcasting rods are St.Croix Legend Tournament with a few Mojo Bass mixed in to the bunch. I really like these rods for the split grip design.For the money you can't really go wrong with the Mojo rods. I got a Skeet Reese 8 ft flippin' rod that I can't wait to try The other thing I like about the St.Croix is that I can make a 4 hour drive to their factory in Wisconsin and get really good deals
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Post by bacon on Mar 25, 2011 14:40:09 GMT -4
im a big fan of the st. Croix rods also, with the premier being my most used, mostly because of price, but i do have a couple legands and i just bought the wife an avid, because i may have broken here triumph(see other thread, LOL) i contacted st. croix right away and set ourselves up as dealers when we opened there shop. all of there rods are made in the USA, right here in WI, or in Mexico. rods are designed and prototyped here, and then certain rods are manafactured in Mexico. the Triumph, tidewater, mojo bass, mojo musky, eyecon, and the cheap flyrods are made in Mexico with the same materials that they make the ones in park falls WI. on average, these are the lower end of the spectum of rods that they make, with a $120 Mojo bass being very similar in construction to the $140 premier. but there is little doubt that these mexican made rods are very high quality. there triumph rods are definatly not as good, but they are also much cheaper, and for the money, not to bad. the worst part is that even as a dealer, there in store prices on rods is cheaper then my cost many times. the rods they sell in their store are seconds or factory promos, but many times you can not find the defect that causes them to be seconds, as the finish was lighter or darker then intended, or a small scratch is visible in the finish, it will not effect the action or life of the rod at all, and you get a rod for about half price. or some are demo rods used by factory reps or pro staff and you can see some dirty areas on the cork grips, but other then that, perfect. they have gone to burning an 'S' into the butt of these second rods to help keep them from being sold as new because other wise it could be hard to tell. they also have repaired rods for dirt cheap, you can get a $300 elite rod for $40 if you dont mind the last 3 inches had been broken off but factory repaired, however, these are slim pickins at times and they have the entire st croix decal and info scratched off of the rod and that is kinda an eye sore, but still not a bad value. they also sell the regular first rods in store but at full price, just like everywhere else. that was one nice thing about there program, no matter where you go, there rods are a certain price, my price is the same as cabelas, they can not discount them and undercut me, and i cant sell them at a discount to try to undercut any other dealer, if you get caught having a sale or posting a price other then what comes on the label, they will pull your dealership. keep everyone on a fair playing field, not a bad company to work with, or patronize.
bacon
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Post by bacon on Mar 25, 2011 14:41:41 GMT -4
LOL, i just remember about this, i gave st croix rods to all of my groomsmen in my wedding, sure beats an engraved pocket knife bacon
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Post by purplehog44 on Mar 25, 2011 15:11:29 GMT -4
im a big fan of the st. Croix rods also, with the premier being my most used, mostly because of price, but i do have a couple legands and i just bought the wife an avid, because i may have broken here triumph(see other thread, LOL) i contacted st. croix right away and set ourselves up as dealers when we opened there shop. all of there rods are made in the USA, right here in WI, or in Mexico. rods are designed and prototyped here, and then certain rods are manafactured in Mexico. the Triumph, tidewater, mojo bass, mojo musky, eyecon, and the cheap flyrods are made in Mexico with the same materials that they make the ones in park falls WI. on average, these are the lower end of the spectum of rods that they make, with a $120 Mojo bass being very similar in construction to the $140 premier. but there is little doubt that these mexican made rods are very high quality. there triumph rods are definatly not as good, but they are also much cheaper, and for the money, not to bad. the worst part is that even as a dealer, there in store prices on rods is cheaper then my cost many times. the rods they sell in their store are seconds or factory promos, but many times you can not find the defect that causes them to be seconds, as the finish was lighter or darker then intended, or a small scratch is visible in the finish, it will not effect the action or life of the rod at all, and you get a rod for about half price. or some are demo rods used by factory reps or pro staff and you can see some dirty areas on the cork grips, but other then that, perfect. they have gone to burning an 'S' into the butt of these second rods to help keep them from being sold as new because other wise it could be hard to tell. they also have repaired rods for dirt cheap, you can get a $300 elite rod for $40 if you dont mind the last 3 inches had been broken off but factory repaired, however, these are slim pickins at times and they have the entire st croix decal and info scratched off of the rod and that is kinda an eye sore, but still not a bad value. they also sell the regular first rods in store but at full price, just like everywhere else. that was one nice thing about there program, no matter where you go, there rods are a certain price, my price is the same as cabelas, they can not discount them and undercut me, and i cant sell them at a discount to try to undercut any other dealer, if you get caught having a sale or posting a price other then what comes on the label, they will pull your dealership. keep everyone on a fair playing field, not a bad company to work with, or patronize. bacon This post is both good and hard to read.
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Post by bacon on Mar 25, 2011 20:46:10 GMT -4
This post is both good and hard to read. LOL, i get that alot, just be glad i used a few periods in there. paragraphs are way over rated. bacon
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